Looking back on our time in Buenos Aires we had incredible fun experiencing what the city has to offer and learning about the history. Here’s some highlights of places we’d recommend which we haven’t already blogged about.
San Telmo is the oldest neighbourhood in Buenos Aires and was a very affluent area until an epidemic of Yellow Fever struck in 1871. The disease claimed over 10,000 and caused a mass exodus within the middle and upper classes to safer neighbourhoods in the North, leaving hundreds of properties vacant. During a wave of immigration from Europe in 1875 -1930 many properties came back into use and San Telmo is now the most multi-cultural neighbourhood in Buenos Aires with it’s bohemian air attracting all kinds of artists. We spent a great day wandering around the antique markets and cobbled streets, with most of the 19th century architecture remaining it’s easy to see why it’s so popular.
One of the many busy streets lined with market stalls in pretty San Telmo.
One of the northern neighbourhoods that many middle and upper class families moved to following the Yellow Fever outbreak was Recoleta. It became and still is one of the most affluent neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, home to many stylish private family mansions and luxury hotels. For us the most interesting part of our time there was wondering around the Recoleta Cemetery where many of the city’s rich and famous have been laid to rest, including Eva Peron. It was huge! An eerie city of elaborately lavish tombs. Definitely a must see. The parks around there are beautiful too and we were treated to a Capoeira show whilst relaxing there one day.
The eerie mini city of death.
Happy face! Coconut, chocolate smothered, icecream.
With stunning fresh water canals and picturesque views there is no wonder that Tigre is described as a mini Venice. The relaxed atmosphere in the lush countryside was fantastic for escaping the hustle and bustle of the main city for a while and we visited a couple of times. There’s a fantastic rail service from the city and the cost is just AR$2 (which is around 10p). There’s plenty of good restaurants serving asado or you can just take a picnic to enjoy by the river – 0either way though you must (and I mean MUST) get an ice-cream from Toscana Heladeria!
The gorgeous river in Tigre.
Las Cabras & Cumana
Gran Bife in Las Cabras – we still dream about it!
These were by far our most favourite places to eat in Buenos Aires, we went back to each several times for three reasons; the food was incredibly delicious, the prices were cheap as chips and the service was great. What more can you ask for! (Top tip: get there early to Las Cabras because if you arrive after about 8pm you will be queuing out of the door).
The delicious ‘picarda for two’ in Cumana.
Canning Tango CLUB
Of course you can’t visit Argentina without experiencing tango and going to a Milonga. A Milonga is just basically a term for an event where Tango is danced – beware though they don’t usually start until 11pm and don’t really get going until 1 or 2am so make sure you get an afternoon nap in. When we went we decided to throw ourselves into the culture and take a lesson beforehand. It was so much fun but much harder than it looked – there was a lot of giggling and toe stepping! After only one lesson and having not yet mastered how to turn without falling over each other we decided not to brave the dance floor at the main event – far more wine would have been needed! It was more fun to watch and whilst there we were treated to an impromptu appearance by the world champion Tango dancers which was just incredible.
The milonga in full swing!