The Painted Rocks of Tafraoute: Is Morocco's Most Divisive Sight Worth Visiting?

Just a few miles south of Tafraoute, nestled amongst the desolate landscape of the Ameln Valley you’ll find one of the most intriguing sights in Morocco, the famous painted rocks of Tafraoute.

Having completed two road trips to Morocco by campervan and covered over 6,000km across the country (including three weeks exploring the Anti-Atlas region) we thought we had a pretty good idea of what to expect when we finally made it to the painted rocks. We'd seen the photos and scrolled past them enough times while planning our route that they'd started to almost feel familiar.

However nothing quite prepares you for the moment they actually come into view. There's something about seeing them in real life, the sheer scale of the boulders, the intensity of the colour against all that bare rock and the deafening silence that just makes the photos feel like a complete understatement.

Visiting the Painted Rocks of Tafraoute, Morocco

We were there on a quiet February morning with our daughter, just the three of us, and the place was completely deserted. No other tourists, no noise, just the wind and the surreal sight of these enormous electric blue rocks rising out of the landscape. It's one of those moments that's genuinely hard to describe because it was equal parts bizarre and beautiful and one that's stayed with us long after we left.

Popping against the muted hues of the natural landscapes, these ginormous granite boulders covered in bright paint feel totally surreal. Psychedelic even. And seeing them with your own eyes is, in our opinion, an absolute must for your Morocco itinerary. Even with the controversy - we'll get to that in a bit!

In this blog post you'll learn everything you need to know about visiting this man-made phenomenon at Agard-Oudada. Including how to get there, where to stay nearby, other things to do in Tafraoute and of course why these things are so damn controversial.

Who Created the Painted Rocks in Morocco?

The painted rocks are actually the work of Belgian artist Jean Verame. In 1984, with the help of the Tafraoute fire department, he created this vast outdoor artwork as a tribute to his late wife. A project that took three months and used an incredible 18 tonnes of paint!

Most commonly referred to as the Morocco's blue rocks, they are in fact multicoloured. Pink, red, black, yellow and orange boulders are dotted amongst the blue too.

In French they are known as Les Rochers Peints de Tafraout. Naturally, with the rocks so exposed to the elements, the paint has suffered significant weathering over the years. Particularly the pink. But they have since been repainted to restore their former vibrance.

Morocco's Blue Rocks Controversy 

There’s a long stretching history surrounding the ancient oasis town of Tafraoute, so having such a modern piece of massive artwork dominate its landscape can feel somewhat at odds. Some call it vandalism, some call it art. Maybe it’s both?

What we will say is that seeing them in person gave us a lot more appreciation for the scale of what Verame created. Standing next to these boulders, some of them genuinely enormous, knowing that a man painted them by hand even with the help of a fire brigade is kind of mind blowing. Whatever your view on whether it should exist, the ambition of it is hard not to admire.

Our daughter was absolutely fascinated. Especially for kids, I think, there's something wonderfully illogical about giant painted rocks in the middle of a desert valley, and watching her try to make sense of it was one of the highlights of the whole trip. You either love them or hate them, but either way you won't be indifferent. That you'll have to decide for yourself.

How To Get To Tafraoute Blue Rocks

By Car or Campervan

To drive to ‘Les Rochers Peintes’ from Tafraoute town centre head south along the R107 and follow signposts on the right. There’s no designated parking but plenty of space.

On the way back you can pop out onto the R104 instead to see different views of the landscape.

The coordinates for where we parked are: 29.6703, -8.9751 or N 29° 40’ 13” W 8° 58’ 30”.

Our experience: We visited first thing in the morning on a weekday in February and had the entire site to ourselves. The silence out there is something else it really adds to the otherworldly atmosphere. If you can, go early and go on a weekday. You'll get the place to yourself and the light is better for photos too.

Planning to hire a car to explore the area? We use Discover Cars to find the best rental deals in Morocco.

Important: Please note, you can only park at Tafraoute blue rocks during the day, overnight stays are no longer permitted. Police patrol so you will be moved on or fined.

By Foot or Bike

From the town centre there’s a couple of different hiking routes that will lead you to Tafraoute painted rocks. Depending on which route you take, the distance is around 6-7 kilometres and will take just over an hour to walk or 20-30 minutes to cycle.

If you'd rather join a guided ride, there are also organised mountain bike tours from Tafraoute available.

Some of our vanlife friends walked here from Tafraoute with their kids and made a full day of it, bringing a picnic and turning it into a proper adventure. They absolutely loved it and honestly it sounds like an awesome way to do it if you have the time.

Top Tip: Make sure you have your map downloaded for offline use, and take plenty of water and snacks as there's nothing available out there.

If you're relying on Google Maps to get you anywhere in Morocco, make sure you have data. We use Holafly eSIMs for reliable connectivity across Morocco without the roaming charges.

Hotels Near Morocco's Painted Rocks

Elmalara | This countryside guest house with mountain views is just a 15 minutes drive from the blue stones and has fantastic reviews. Or if you prefer you can hire bikes or hike either. There’s a beaut outdoor swimming pool, a restaurant with terrace and free private parking.

Check reviews, prices, photos & availability here.

Hôtel Titrit | Situated in the town centre, this family run Tafraoute hotel has a choice of either twin or triple rooms. Previous guests say that they felt so welcomed it was like visiting family. There’s secure onsite parking and from here it’s a 30 minute drive to the painted rocks.

Check reviews, prices, photos & availability here.

Iskki-Asnfou | For something a little different, this charmingly rustic Berber homestay is a 45 minute drive from the blue rocks Morocco. Mohammed and his family receive consistently rave reviews about their hospitality. The surrounding area is great for hiking too.

Check reviews, prices, photos & availability here.

Not staying in Tafraoute? It's also possible to visit as a day trip from Agadir or as a day trip from Taghazout. Both of which make great bases if you're planning on exploring the Atlantic coast of Morocco during your trip too.

Travelling by Van or Motorhome?

If you're exploring Morocco by campervan or motorhome, Tafraoute is a must overnight stop. There are a few campsites in town with full facilities. But most van travellers head for the Aire, which is significantly cheaper and has an empty and fill up facility nearby.

The coordinates for the Tafraoute Camping Aire are: 29.7208, -8.9843 or N 29° 43' 15" W 8° 59' 3".

We've stayed here ourselves and it's a great base. It's central, well positioned for exploring the valley, and has a really lovely atmosphere. Other Morocco van travellers tend to congregate here so it's a brilliant spot for swapping tips and route ideas with like minded people. Fair warning though: we only intended to stay one night and ended up staying considerably longer. It has a way of doing that to you.

Best Campervan Park Up in Tafraoute

One of our favourite things about staying here was the locals who come by to sell fresh bread, fruit and sweet treats. You can even order homemade tagines to be delivered straight to your van, which after a long day of driving is an absolute dream. Oh, and don't be surprised if a few goats wander past your window. Perfectly normal.

One thing to note: while there are plenty of places you can wild camp overnight in Morocco, the painted rocks at Tafraoute aren't one of them. You used to be able too, but that was stopped a few years ago and is patrolled by police so if you do risk it, expect to be fined or moved on.

Planning a Morocco campervan trip? In our Vanlife Morocco Handbook we cover all of our favourite campsites, Aires, wild camping spots and our own route through the Anti-Atlas, including the area around Tafraoute. Everything we wish we'd known before our first trip, in one place.

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Things To Do In Tafraoute, Morocco 

Buy Some Babouche Slippers

Tafraoute is one of the best places to pick up a pair of traditional Moroccan babouche slippers and we can vouch for that firsthand, we bought a couple of pairs ourselves. The stall holders in the market actually make them on site and they are so much cheaper than the touristy hotspots of Marrakesh or bigger cities like Rabat.

There’s also lots of lovely woodwork, jewellery and other leather items on offer. Plus on Wednesday there’s a bigger market so if you’re here then you can really get your shop on.

Relax At A Local Hamman

If you've never tried one before, and even if you have, visiting a local hammam is one of the best things you can do in any Moroccan town and Tafraoute is no exception. We visited Complexe Jawharat ourselves and it was genuinely one of the best we had in Morocco.

Their 150 dhs package includes all the necessary bathing items plus a massage, and after weeks on dusty Anti-Atlas roads it felt like absolute heaven. Highly recommend.

Visit A Nearby Berber Village 

Less than 10km from the centre of Tafraoute is the Berber (Amazigh) village of Oumesnat. Here you’ll find ‘La Maison Traditionelle’, a beautiful conservation of a traditional Amazigh house which is now a hotel and museum displaying typical household items.

We didn't make it here this trip but thought it worth a mention as we heard from other travellers that the family that owns it are super hospitable and love sharing their culture and way of life. There’s also the Berber villages of Emintizket, Amtoudi and Ikouka nearby too. 

Get Your Hiking Boots On 

Set against a backdrop of spectacular shaped rock formations, the landscape around Tafraoute has some breathtaking hikes. Jebel Kest, the highest peak in the region, is not for the inexperienced, but there’s plenty of less strenuous hiking routes in Tafraoute.

Owing to the rocky landscape the area is also popular with climbers. And then of course you have cycling. Basically, if you love being active outdoors, Tafraoute is a brilliant playground. 

Having spent three weeks driving the Anti-Atlas by van, we'd say the landscape around Tafraoute in general is some of the most dramatic we encountered in the entire region.

Hit Up Local Festivals

If you happen to time your visit with either of the local Tafraoute festivals, you’re in for a treat.

Held during the second week of February, there’s the Almond Blossom Festival. Unfortunately we'd just missed it. But met people who had been and said it was great fun, with lots of traditional Berber music, dancing and tasty food. During August there is also the Tafraoute Summer Music Festival. This is three day event features musicians from all over Morocco. Would absolutely love to be there for that!

Detour To Ait Mansour Gorge

Less than an hour's drive from Tafraoute (30km) you'll find the jaw dropping Ait Mansour Gorge. Situated in the heart of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, this palm filled natural beauty is one of the most gorgeous oases in Morocco and somewhere we visited ourselves during our time in the area.

The drive through the gorge alone is worth it, the scenery is absolutely spectacular. It's a great place for swimming and you can camp too, making it an ideal detour if you have a little extra time to play with.

Travel Insurance For Morocco

One thing we'd never skip when travelling Morocco is good travel insurance. The roads in the Anti-Atlas in particular can be remote and unpredictable, and being properly covered gives you real peace of mind when you're far from the nearest city. We personally use and recommend Heymondo for travel insurance that covers Morocco properly, whether you're on a short trip or an extended adventure.

Painted Rocks in Tafraoute: FAQ’s

Are There Any Toilets at the Painted Rocks in Tafraoute?

No. There are no facilities whatsoever at Tafraoute blue rocks. We did hear there were plans to open a small cafe, but as far as we're aware this hasn’t happened yet.

How Much Does Parking Cost at the Painted Rocks in Tafraoute?

Parking at the painted rocks in Tafraoute is free. There are signs that direct you around to the main flat area, but you can park pretty much anywhere that isn't blocking access. 

When Is The Best Time To Visit the Painted Rocks in Morocco?

To avoid the crowds and high temperatures the best time to visit the Morocco blue rocks is over the winter months in the morning. We were there early one weekday during February and there was no one else there.

If you are visiting over the summer months be sure to cover up and take plenty of water. There’s almost zero shade out there and the sun is strong.

How Much Does It Cost To Visit the Painted Rocks in Morocco?

There is no entrance fee to visit the painted rocks in Tafraoute, it is completely free. 

Is it worth visiting the Painted Rocks in Tafraoute?

Yes. Especially if you're already in the area or passing through on a Morocco road trip. It's free, takes less than an hour, and is genuinely unlike anything else you'll see in the country.

Even if you're on the fence about whether it's art or vandalism, seeing it in person is a different experience to scrolling past photos online.

Can you visit the Painted Rocks with kids?

Absolutely. There's no entrance fee, no steep terrain and no facilities to worry about beyond bringing your own water. Kids tend to love it, there's something about the scale and the colour that really captures their imagination.

Just make sure everyone is sun protected, especially in summer, as there's zero shade out there.

How long should I spend at the Painted Rocks Tafraoute?

Most people spend between 30 minutes and an hour. There's no set path so you wander freely around and between the boulders. If you're a photographer or want to really take it in at a slower pace, give yourself longer - as much time as you want.

We wandered around for nearly two hours on a quiet February morning and didn't regret a minute of it.

More On Morocco

Between two Morocco road trips and over 6,000km of vanlife driving, we've covered a lot of ground. Here's some more of our favourite places that we found:

• Visiting Hassan II Casablanca Mosque - Everything You Need to Know
• The Painted Rocks of Tafraoute: Is Morocco's Most Divisive Sight Worth Visiting?
• Vanlife Morocco: A Quick Beginner’s Guide

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