Xochimilco Mexico City: An Honest Guide to the Floating Gardens

I can tell you from personal experience that I didn’t have very high expectations of our visit to Xochimilco Mexico City.

But it turned out to be a fantastic day out and honestly it's one of the trips that you just have to make when you’re in this part of the world.

The reason I was sceptical is that Xochimilco has got a very mixed reputation, with some people absolutely loving it and others despising it with a passion.

And I’ve seen it variously described as the Mexican Venice, a cultural booze cruise, and even a youth club on water.

But here’s the thing - it’s impossible to know which camp you’ll fall into unless you go and experience it for yourself. So that's exactly what we did.

When people talk about visiting Xochimilco, what they’re usually referring to is the network of canals known as The Floating Gardens of Xochimilco rather than the surrounding area.

The photogenic, brightly coloured gondolas, or Xochimilco Trajineras, that cruise up and down the water are what have made it so popular among both foreign and Mexican tourists alike.

But we discovered there’s a lot more to Xochimilco than just the waterways and boat trips including a dying form of traditional Mexican bar, a brilliant colonial market and beautiful backstreets to explore.

Jump to:

• Xochimilco Mexico City
• How to Get to Xochimilco Mexico City
• Mexico City to Xochimilco by Bus
• The Best Mexico City Xochimilco Tour
• Uber to Xochimilco Mexico City
• The History of the Floating Gardens of Xochimilco
• A Trip on the Trajineras or Xochimilco Boats Mexico City
• The Island of the Dolls, Xochimilco
• Xochimilco Hours
• Things to Do in Xochimilco Beyond the Boats
• Safety in Xochimilco
• Xochimilco FAQs

Xochimilco Mexico City

This post will run through everything you need to know about planning a visit here.

We'll cover how to get to Xochimilco by public transport. We'll also go over some of the history of the Xochimilco canals, and what to expect on the Xochimilco boats plus other essential Xochimilco tips.

We're also going to recommend the best Xochimilco tour to book - after all, Xochimilco is really far away from the centre of Mexico City.

So if you're not confident using the public transport system or break out in a sweat at the idea of bartering (more on that below), a Xochimilco tour will be the best option.

How to Get to Xochimilco Mexico City

It's relatively easy to get to Xochimilco Mexico City by your own on public transport.

And there’s much more to do here than just ride on the famous Xochimilco trajineras.

You can easily spend a whole day here, so if you've got the time to spare and are comfortable navigating Mexico City's public transport then this is a great option.

How to get to Xochimilco by public transport obviously depends on where you’re starting from. But your first point of call is to get yourself to your local metro station.

If you’ve not used the metro system in Mexico City then don’t worry, it’s just the same as the metro anywhere in the world.

Yes it gets crowded at times, but it’s super convenient and extremely cheap.

We got told various bad stories about pickpocketing, but in truth you should be aware of this no matter which city’s metro you’re using.

Use your common sense, watch your things and you’ll be fine.

Mexico City to Xochimilco by Bus

The metro system in Mexico City is convenient, efficient and extremely cheap. At only $5 MXN pesos (around £0.20 GBP or $0.27 USD) per journey it's well worth getting acquainted with.

You first need to buy a Metro card (Integrated Mobility Card) to use the system, but this handy card will allow you to use the Metro, Metrobús, and Ecobici. In fact it's often the only way to use them.

You can buy a Metro Card at the ticket window of any Metro station, light rail ticket window or machines in any Metrobús station. They cost $15 MXN pesos (around £0.60 GBP or $0.81 USD).

Start by navigating your way to Tasqueña station which is at the very end of the Blue Line 2.

From Tasqueña there is a dedicated train called the Tren Ligero which starts in Tasqueña and finishes in Xochimilco. You can use your Metro card on this as well.

It’s basically an overground metro line which goes all the way there.

When you arrive, you’re in the heart of Xochimilco and can easily walk to all of the points of interest.

When you leave the station you’ll be confronted by lots of guys in official looking lanyards.

They'll be pointing you in the direction of the embarcaderos or ports where the trajineras launch from.

They actually work for the different companies that run the trajineras so will try and get you to go to their particular launch point.

Don’t feel bullied or harassed into going with them, remember it’s always your choice where you spend your money.

If you're relying on Google Maps to navigate the metro, make sure you have data. We use Holafly eSIMs for reliable connectivity without the roaming charges.

The Best Mexico City Xochimilco Tour

If the idea of heading to Xochimilco from Mexico City by yourself doesn't appeal for whatever reason, don't worry.

There are some great Xochimilco tours that allow you to enjoy the magical waterways with none of the stress.

No navigating the Mexico City metro and no haggling for a better price on your boat.

Most of the Xochimilco tours combine a boat ride with visits to other attractions on the way.

There are two Xochimilco tours that we would highly recommend depending on what your interests are.

The first Xochimilco tour to consider is this awesome trip that includes a visit to the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM).

The campus is a UNESCO Heritage site, thanks in part to being decorated with murals by famous Mexican artists such as Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros.

The largest and most important university in Latin America, UNAM is pretty special in its own right.

Not only is it interesting to look at, but it boasts a fascinating history featuring esteemed academics, innovation and the seeds of revolution.

If you are simply after a stress free boat trip then the other Mexico city Xochimilco tour we'd recommend is this one. It includes a traditional gondola tour with food and unlimited drinks included.

We'd suggest opting for this one if you haven't already visited Coyoacan or it isn't in your plans.

However Coyoacan is one of our favourite parts of CDMX so we don't think it should be missed. It's the birthplace of Frida Kahlo, and where the incredible museum dedicated to her is.

But more than that, it's like a little individual town in its own right and totally different from the rest of Mexico City.

Uber to Xochimilco Mexico City

If you're not interested in going by public transport or doing a Xochimilco tour, you have a third option to get there.

Getting an Uber to Xochimilco is easy and hassle free, just bear in mind that depending on the time of day, traffic in Mexico City can be bonkers.

Because of this, it may not be the quickest way to get there and back. And it certainly won't be the cheapest.

An cost of an Uber to Xochimilco from the centre of Mexico City starts at around $365 MXN ($20USD, £14.50GBP).

That's one way and can fluctuate significantly depending on traffic and demand.

Driving to Xochimilco

If you’re hiring a car to explore more of Mexico, driving to Xochimilco is also a perfectly viable option. That said, traffic in CDMX can be seriously heavy depending on the time of day, so give yourself plenty of extra time and factor in that you'll need to pay for parking once you're there as well.

If you’re still sorting car hire for your trip, we use DiscoverCars to find the best deal. It compares local and international agencies in one place, reviews included, which takes a lot of the legwork out of it.

The History of the Floating Gardens of Xochimilco

Incredibly, the whole of Mexico City is built on a vast lake, and Xochimilco is no exception.

However, the actual construction of the famous floating gardens of Xochimilco was slightly different.

The so called gardens are actually named chinampas, and far from floating. In fact they're actually islands that remain permanently in situ.

They were constructed by the local population, way back in pre-hispanic times. They would pack mud and silt from the bottom of the lake high enough until it broke the surface.

They’re held together with the roots of trees, so though they’re man made, they’re created entirely from natural resources.

Thanks to the nutrient rich soil in the lakes and the year round abundance of water, these islands are ideal for farming.

The Aztecs used to cultivate huge amounts of fresh fruit and vegetables on the chinampas. And in part you can see that they’re still used for growing things and are covered in lush greenery.

Nowadays though, they’re largely maintained for their touristic value rather than for farming.

A Trip on the Trajineras or Xochimilco Boats Mexico City

The first thing to know about a ride on the Xochimilco boats in Mexico City (or trajineras as they're known locally) is that they’re not especially cheap.

In fact, if your negotiation and haggling skills aren’t up to scratch then they can work out to be pretty damned expensive.

There’s no fixed price as such (though there is a maximum hourly rate) so you have to barter for a good price depending on what you want.

You hire Xochimilco boats by the hour, and generally people tend to go for two hours at a minimum.

The hourly maximum rate is set by the local government body, this currently stands at $600 mexican pesos per hour.

This price is for the boat, not per person so obviously the more people you have the cheaper it becomes for each of you.

Be prepared for some extortionate quotes though, as some operators like to try their luck whenever possible. And we're not alone in this experience, readers have told us they were quoted as much as $2,500 pesos for a two hour ride.

Xochimilco Boat Prices: How to Haggle

We made a fatal error in our negotiations, as the guy we were speaking to caught us off guard with an offer of $1,900 MXN for a two hour ride.

Unfortunately my first counter was to tell him how ridiculous that was because we knew that the maximum rate was, at that time, $450 MXN per hour.

It didn’t leave us very much wiggle room, so when he reduced his rate to $900 it was pretty much impossible to barter down any more.

To avoid making the same mistake I’d suggest going in with a low ball offer and working from there.

If you’re not happy with the price then there are lots of operators so don’t be afraid to move on and try another one.

We were not really in the mood to trawl up and down for a cheaper price, so aware that we weren’t getting totally ripped off just went for this.

If you’re not confident negotiating in Spanish, don’t worry too much as most of the salespeople speak fluent English.

What to Expect on the Xochimilco Boats

Once you’re on the boat, all you need to do is kick back, relax and enjoy the carnival as you get ferried around the busy waterways.

The canals are crowded with hundreds of boats going up and down, particularly on the weekends, everyone enjoying a few drinks, a bite to eat and the music.

Many of the trajineras have full mariachi bands on, there are also xylophone players, singers and brass bands playing everything from Mexican classics to modern chart music.

For a small fee they will either attach their boat to yours, or even jump on for a few minutes and play a selection of tunes.

It’s a bit like a floating market in parts, as trajineras laden with all kinds of traditional Mexican arts and crafts work their way along the waterways.

There are also plenty of food stalls and drinks sellers, so there’s no need to worry if you’ve not brought anything on with you.

You can get everything from beer and pulque to water and fruit juices, BBQ corn and tacos to freshly cooked steaks, all right there on the water.

The Island of the Dolls, Xochimilco

I couldn't talk about Xochimilco without mentioning one of Mexico's most bizarre and unnerving attractions.

The Island of the Dolls, or La Isla de las Munecas, is exactly as it sounds. Hundreds of old, battered dolls hang from the trees, fences and buildings of a small island deep in the canals.

The story behind it is genuinely fascinating. A man named Julian Santana Barrera lived alone on the island for decades. Tragically, he discovered a young girl who drowned in a canal near to his house. He also found a doll floating nearby.

He claimed that shortly after, the girl's spirit began haunting him. In an effort to appease her spirit he hung the doll he'd found up in his garden. After that he began collecting dolls he found and hanging them around the island to try and ward off evil spirits.

He did this for over 50 years, sourcing the dolls from the canals and local rubbish dumps. In 2001, Barrera himself was found dead, apparently drowned in the same spot where the girl had allegedly died.

The island has been open to visitors ever since and is now one of the most visited spots in Xochimilco.

It's not for the faint hearted. The dolls are old, dirty and in various states of decay. Many are missing limbs or eyes, and some locals claim they move on their own at night.

Whether you believe that or not, the atmosphere out there is legitimately eerie.

To visit you'll need to head deeper into the canals, away from the main tourist route. It takes around 30 to 40 minutes to reach from the main embarcaderos. Factor in extra time and budget when planning your boat hire.

If you're into dark tourism or just want a story to tell when you get home, this one is unmissable.

If you want to visit without the stress of navigating there yourself, you can book a guided tour to the Island of the Dolls that also includes a tequila and mezcal tasting.

Xochimilco Hours

The Xochimilco hours of operation for the trajineras start at 9am. You can get a boat ride anytime from then and they carry on all day, winding up at 6pm.

If you're wondering how many hours to allocate for a trip to Xochimilco, that depends on what you plan on doing.

Boat rides can last anywhere from an hour to all day if that's what you want!

At a minimum allow 3-4 hours to visit Xochimilco, more if you're planning on seeing the town as well.

Bear in mind that Xochimilco is busiest on weekdays and extremely chocka during holidays.

If you want a more peaceful Xochimilco boat trip, head down during the week.

However, for many people, the lively atmosphere you'll encounter on the weekend is the best part.

Things to Do in Xochimilco Beyond the Boats

While a boat ride is obviously the main reason people come here, there are plenty of other things to do in Xochimilco Mexico City.

Here's our selections of what not to miss on your visit plus our top Xochimilco tips for an amazing visit.

Xochimilco Market

Before you get on your Xochimilco trajinera, it’s a good idea to pick up some food and drinks for the excursion.

The cheapest and most interesting place to do this is at the market. Visiting Xochimilco Market is a great experience in itself.

The colorful, bustling, traditional Mexican market is principally housed in a vast colonial style building, but spills out freely onto the surrounding streets.

The sights and smells are enough to get you excited, and there are different sections for anything you might want.

There’s a large fresh produce area where the fruit and vegetables are beautifully laid out in immaculate, symmetrical piles.

There’s a whole aisle of taco makers where you can buy them by the kilo, freshly made and still warm.

Wandering around you’ll see everything from pet stores selling goldfish and hamsters, to little outlets selling chapulines (fried grasshoppers) and dried fruit and nuts.

You can also get all sorts of prepared foods like barbacoa (BBQ goat), nopales (cactus), mole (meat in a savoury chocolate sauce) and various other different Mexican dishes.

Check Out a Traditional Pulqueria

Just a couple of blocks away from the market on the corner of Avenue 5 de Mayo and Francisco I. Madero, you’ll find the truly incredible the Pulqueria el Templo de Diana.

If you have no idea what a pulqueria is, that’s because they’re a dying form of bar that specialises in a very traditional Mexican, alcoholic drink made by fermenting the sap of the agave plant.

Pulque is a hard drink to describe both in its taste and its effects. So I’m going to put in a quick disclaimer here that it’s not everybody’s bag and you may well hate the stuff!

It’s quite a thick, gloopy, white substance, so just the texture alone is off putting to some people.

It’s also extremely sour in a way that will make your face scrunch up the first time you try it.

Having said that, I personally really enjoy pulque as I’m not a big fan of sweet drinks, so it suits my taste buds perfectly.

But worry not, if you don’t like the natural variety, it also comes in an endless number of surprising and whacky flavours.

At Templo de Diana they range from fruity tastes like mango, tamarind and strawberry right through to a strange concoction called an Ostión.

The Ostión contains tomato juice, chile sauce and a healthy portion of oysters and prawns thrown in for good measure. It’s served with a side of crackers.

Clearly we had to try one, and though it sounds a bit bonkers, it was actually really tasty.

Explore Xochimilco Beyond the Canals

There are a number of historic churches in Xochimilco that are worth taking a look at and are walking distance from the city centre. 

San Bernardino de Siena is probably the most famous but there are a few dotted around, each with their own unique appearance and backstory.

Xochimilco is full of life and an exciting place to just wander around the backstreets between the market and the embarcaderos where the trajineras leave from.

There are lots of street food stalls, open fronted shops selling everything from trinkets to trainers, and we even saw a family riding through the streets on horseback.

Though the trajineras are undoubtedly the main attraction here, Xochimilco Mexico City is a really great place to spend a day.

You'll get a totally different impression from many of the other main areas of Mexico City and get to enjoy some totally unique experiences at the same time.

At the very least, go so you can make your own mind up as to whether it's a great cultural experience or a horrific, tacky tourist attraction.

Safety in Xochimilco

Xochimilco is completely safe to visit. That being said, it does get very busy at times so use a common sense approach and look after your valuables. Especially when travelling on public transport.

One thing we'd never skip when visiting Mexico City is good travel insurance. Visiting Xochimilco involves navigating public transport, busy waterways and a fair amount of haggling, and being properly covered gives you real peace of mind so you can focus on enjoying the day rather than worrying about the what ifs. We recommend Hey Mondo for travel insurance that covers Mexico properly, whether you're on a city break or a longer trip.

Xochimilco FAQs

Is Xochimilco worth visiting?

Xochimilco is absolutely worth a visit. That's not to say that you will love it - not everyone does. But it's certainly a unique experience that you simply can't get elsewhere and makes for a fantastic day trip from CDMX.

How far is Xochimilco from Mexico City?

Xochimilco is roughly 15 miles (25 km) from the centre of Mexico City. But though it's not particularly far, it can take some time to get there depending on your method of transport. Allow up to 1.5 hours by public transport, anywhere from 30 minutes upwards by taxi/Uber (traffic dependant).

Is Xochimilco a tourist trap?

Xochimilco is definitely a tourist trap on the weekends, particularly Sunday afternoons. But on weekdays it's relatively quiet. Bear in mind that for many, part of the fun is the buzzing atmosphere, so choose when to go accordingly.

What is Xochimilco known for?

Xochimilco is known for its network of canals that flow through a series of amazing floating gardens (chinampas) built by the Aztecs. Then there's its colourful gondolas (trajineras) that traverse the waterways. And don't forget the haunted Island of the Dolls.

How long is the Xochimilco boat ride?

Xochimilco boat rides can last as long as you want, but the average time people tend to spend on the water in a trajineras is 2 hours.

How much should I pay for Xochimilco?

The standardised rate for a boat trip in Xochimilco currently stands at mx$600 per hour and that's per boat (trajinera) not per person. This is a fixed maximum rate.

Have you got any questions about your upcoming trip to Xochimilco? Let us know in the comments below!

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